mattgadient.com

Informational blogging by Matthew Gadient.

…well at least in Canada.

Looking around the web, everything I read seemed to indicate that the Apple Time Capsules used the Hitachi DeskStar drives (presumably the 7K1000 drives), and I couldn’t find anything to indicate that this had changed.

It just might have though.

The WD Drive that came in my Time Capsule

I snapped a photo of the drive I pulled during replacement (upgrading to a 1.5TB drive). If you take a look at the picture above, you’ll notice the Apple logo. The drive used is the 1.0TB WD10EADS Western Digital Caviar Green.

This is a good continue reading…

The Dynex DX-PCIGB in a computer running Mac OS X Snow Leopard.

I’ll jabber on for a bit, and then get to the Dynex PCIGB network card pictured above. If you want to jump right to the card, scroll down a bunch!

Wake for Network Access

Also called “Wake for Ethernet network access” (and another name for the wireless variant), this is the wake-on-lan equivalent for the Mac OS. When combined with Time Capsule (or Airport Extreme), the way things work in the ideal scenario is essentially as follows:

  1. Home network is connected to an Airport Extreme or Time Capsule (generally acting as an internet router).
  2. Mac computer is sharing something – files, printers, whatever, and has the Wake option (in power savings) turned on.
  3. Mac goes to sleep after a period of inactivity to save power and all that good stuff.
  4. Airport Extreme (or Time Capsule) “remembers” what the Mac was sharing, and keeps feeding that info to computers on the network. Thus, the asleep computer still shows up in the SHARED section in the Finder, it’s shared printers will still show up, etc.
  5. When another computer tries to access something on that shared but sleeping mac, Time Capsule / Airport Extreme sends a “magic packet” (wake-up-packet) to the sleeping Mac to wake it up.
  6. Mac wakes up, and shares.

Where this excels is in the way that Time Capsule / Airport Express utilize what’s known as a Sleep Proxy Service (“Bonjour Sleep Proxy” is the fancy Apple-name). When a machine goes to sleep, it’s still advertised as being alive on the network (the TC / AE advertises and responds on the sleeping machine’s behalf and wakes it if/when needed). This is considerably more convenient than the standard WOL style networks where once the machine’s asleep, it’s basically missing from the network until specifically woken.

There are however a few potential downsides: continue reading…

If you hate 27″ screens and wanted to get the strongest video card Apple offers in the 21.5″ model, this is probably the machine you went for (or… the machine you’re thinking of getting). 

In any case, the Radeon HD 5670 offered in the iMac is actually an ATI Mobility 5730m. Higher model number, but mobile chips are clocked a little lower, so you’ve got roughly the power of a desktop 5670. If you’re wondering why Apple goes with mobility GPU’s, they’ve got pretty good reasons:

  • Mobility chips use a lot less power. It’s tough to find a desktop machine that competes with the iMac’s power consumption. This makes the tree-huggers happy, as well as the people with high electric bills. Incidentally, it also means Apple can go a little less crazy on the power supply in the iMac. Everybody wins.
  • Mobility chips generate less heat. Related to the power thing above. Less heat means the fans don’t need to sound like jet engines. Apple doesn’t have to worry about people burning their hands on the aluminum. Your air-conditioning doesn’t have to work as hard in the summer. Good plusses here.
  • Mobility chips tend to go on small circuit boards. Since these are the things you find in laptops, they’re smaller. There’s a lot packed into the guts of an iMac so this helps immensely.

Moving on, because this is a mid-range card and I’m used to high-end cards, I was curious to see how this would fare in games. I ran it through World of Warcraft (on the Mac side), and through Dragon Age: Origins and Mass Effect 2 in Windows through BootCamp.

Here are the results:

You’ll notice 2 resolutions were used, adjusting the Quality Slider in WoW for different test points. This was done in Dalaran in the wee hours of the morning (few people on) in a location where the frame rates were typically low. Framerates differ massively throughout Dalaran, and I wanted consistent numbers that weren’t very optimistic.

To give a playability perspective, I hopped into a battleground (Alterac Valley), so that I could see if things felt smooth with 40 players.

The “Good” quality setting in AV was absolutely perfect. “High” was very strong too, although there were a couple moments where it wasn’t 100% smooth (but only for a moment). I’d recommend starting off at “Good” quality, and going to High/Ultra if you really feel you’re missing out. You can always back down again if you find things get spiky at inopportunte times.

In terms of Windowed mode, the game isn’t handled quite as well (even though the FPS dictates it’s about the same). Spinning in circles, it’s not 100% smooth all the time. It’s still perfectly playable, and many people probably won’t even notice the minor spikes (which look like a single dropped frame).

Regardless, in the case of WoW, I’d recommend playing at full screen, full resolution, and medium to high settings. It looks great. Use VSync though, or you will get tearing during the times/locations when the framerate skyrockets above 100fps.

——

Next up is Dragon Age: Origins (bootcamp/windows 7). You’ll notice a couple things: continue reading…

If you’ve bought one of the recent iMacs, you’ve probably noticed that they now come with a bluetooth wireless keyboard and mouse. As convenient as this may be in the Mac OS, it causes huge headaches when installing Windows.

For starters, when you’re trying the Windows install, don’t be surprised if the keyboard/mouse aren’t working during the install. This is a bit of a problem because you’ve generally got to partition the drive during the install (amongst other things). I suggest you find a USB keyboard/mouse and use them for the install.

The issue that I had after the install and booted into Windows (and after I ran the BootCamp installer on the OSX install DVD through the USB stuff) was that the keyboard was detected, and the mouse wasn’t.

Great…

Turns out you can eventually get the mouse detected, but it’s a huge pain (especially if you’re relying on the keyboard to navigate). I got it working, but it took the following:

-Restart the computer.
-In “devices and printers” (start menu), select and remove the Apple Wireless Mouse.
-You can try adding the mouse with the “Add a device” option (power it off and on if it doesn’t show up), although it’ll probably hang.
-Restart the computer again.
-You can try adding the mouse again (Devices and Printers / Add a device). Again it with probably just hang, so cancel it.
-Navigate to the OS X install DVD again and have it run the BootCamp installer. Choose “Repair”.
-Let it restart once finished.
-Try adding the mouse again. Start/Devices_and_Printers/Add_a_device. Remember that if it doesn’t show, reset the mouse’s power again.

Your Apple Magic Mouse should hopefully be detected this time and work.

Update: This Magic Mouse continues to be a nightmare. Be prepared to remove & re-add the device upon each startup.

Paying PST online in Manitoba (for retail sales for example) is now possible. However, unless you scroll down the page on the Manitoba Finance website (it’s not currently among the links where you’d expect to find it – there’s a banner below all the information), you may not see it.

It’s called TAXcess, and can be found at:
https://taxcess.gov.mb.ca/

I recommend reading through all the information on the site, however here are a few basics that may be helpful to know:

  • Signing up is relatively quick and easy, with a few minor annoyances (for instance, make sure you precisely follow the telephone number example - otherwise it’ll just reset the form without the password with no indication of what you did wrong).
  • While it claims that it may take a day or two to receive the response email with your activation code, I received the activation code instantly. However this was done on a business day – it’s possible that the system doesn’t do new activations on weekends/holidays or that manual intervention is needed if your information doesn’t match their records 100%.
  • By default, signing up means that you will not get forms in the mail anymore. You’ll be e-mailed reminders instead. This can apparantly be switched off in the preferences/options when signed in.
  • The only payment method currently is direct withdrawl from a bank account. They have instructions for entering your direct withdrawl information (which you can pull from a cheque) if you’re not familar with bank/branch/account numbers.
  • It appears as though you may be able to file without making the payment (although you’ll still be required to make the payment somehow by the due date). I haven’t tested this.

Again, I recommend thoroughly reading through the information on the website. There may be a few other quirks, but hopefully the above captures the gist of things. Naturally, this is all subject to change.

In my first playthrough of Leliana’s Song (a DLC to Dragon Age Origins), I found what I initially thought to be a bug… I’d looted a Mages Collective Cache for the Find the Mages Cache quest, and died. Upon loading my save, the cache didn’t seem to be clickable anymore.

As it turns out, it wasn’t a bug (although there was zero information about this out there). The locations for the Mages Collective Cache’s have extremely small clickable areas. If you’re doing the quest, go to the location marked with the X and *slowly* move your mouse around all over the area (whether it’s the pile of wood, the bags, etc).

Eventually you should end up mousing over the tiny area and will get the clickable popup. Don’t forget to hit up all the caches – fortunately they’re all marked on your minimap with an X. Once you’ve done them all, the “Find the Mages’ Cache” quest should be complete.

I really need a rant section…

Few steps if you want me to bite my tongue to keep from lashing out at you. I won’t mention the site/business because I don’t want to give them any traffic whatsoever. continue reading…

Installing Snow Leopard on the H55M-UD2H is relatively easy. I’m using an i3, but due to the lack of full support (no Apple Macs use it at present), I’d suggest going with the i5 which has recently gained some support.

I have provided a DSDT which I finished most of – it has all the basic fixes, and adds USB support properly so that 10.6.3 doesn’t choke – the only thing left to add is the sound (which you’ll probably want), and switch the IDE setting to SATA in the DSDT (which you probably won’t care about).

WARNING: USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! No guarantees. It worked for me, but for all I know it might melt down your system!

You can grab it here:
GA-H55M-UD2H – DSDT for F8 BIOS (DSDT.aml.zip)

Unzip it first. Generally, you put the DSDT.aml in your /Extra folder, but it could depend based on your bootloader.

I did the following:
-Minor fixes so it would compile
-CMOS reset fix (so it won’t clear your CMOS every time you shutdown/restart)
-TMR, HPET, PIC fixes
-SBUS fix (for sleep although with the onboard video I couldn’t get it to sleep anyway)
-USB -> UHCI/EHCI fix (so your USB should work properly and won’t break at 10.6.3)

I would strongly recommend using iBoot Supported + MultiBeast. Tony’s also got fantastic tutorials on his site continue reading…

Recently, Apple dropped the price of their developer program to $99.

I decided to grab it. Apple lists the main benefits on their site:
-Mac OS X Pre-Release Software
-Development Videos
-Apple Developer Forums
-Technical Support

I’ll go into a few details (as much as you can while staying within the NDA anyway), but if you’ve come from a Technet background, this isn’t Technet, and certainly isn’t what you’re looking for unless you’re solely interested in checking out the upcoming Mac OSX releases. If however you’re a programmer coming from an MSDN background, this is the program you’re probably looking for.

continue reading…

A quick note: There are plenty of guides out there about taking apart your Mac Mini in order to install/upgrade the RAM, and swap out the hard drive with another. This is meant to be a supplement to those guides, because you’ll notice that the most recent Mac Mini’s (as of this date), are slightly different in a couple areas.

The RAM/HD upgrade was done on the following system:
-Mac Mini 3,1 (MC238LL/A)
-2.26 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo
-2 GB 1067Mhz DDR3 (upgraded to 4 GB)
-160 GB 5400 RPM DRIVE (upgraded to 500GB Seagate 7200RPM drive)
-nVidia GeForce 9400M video

Note #1: This is laptop DDR3 RAM. You can’t use desktop DDR3. There are 2 memory slots, and each is occupied by a 1GB stick by default. I used some “Lexar” brand stuff from Best Buy (two 2GB sticks). Also note that it’s a 2.5″ laptop hard drive – you can’t use the big clunker from your desktop!

Note #2: If you break something, your warranty’s void. Do it at your own risk.

Note #3: You may want to keep the original components around in case you have to send it in for warranty work and they decide to send you a replacement rather than repair it.

Let’s get started… continue reading…

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