mattgadient.com

Informational blogging by Matthew Gadient.

Scroll down to the pictures if you want to get right to the fix.

The Symptoms:

  • The actual boot-up is pretty quick. As soon as you log in, it slows down to a crawl.
  • The desktop takes forever to load after boot.
  • Programs take forever to start immediately after boot.
  • You may hear the hard drive ticking (thrashing) during this slow period.
  • It may appear as though the hard drive is swapping during this slow period. You might think the page file is swapping like crazy.
  • After 15-20 minutes, everything’s speedy again.

Sound like the problem you’re having?

If the answer to that is “yes”, here’s the next question…. Are you running a Windows bootcamp partition? If the answer to that one’s “yes” too, you’ve just found the cause.

Actually, it’s not bootcamp’s fault. It’s Apple’s built-in Spotlight search (represented by the little magnifying glass in the top-right corner of your screen). Every time the computer restarts, it tries to rebuilt the entire search index on your Windows BOOTCAMP partition. This takes a really long time, and the rest of your computer slows down while this rebuild takes place.

So how to we fix it? We disable Spotlight’s indexing on the BOOTCAMP drive.

It’s a bit of a convoluted process, so I’ve tried to make this pretty simple. Here are the steps:

1) Boot into Windows (your bootcamp partition).

2) Run the “Command Prompt” program as an Administrator. Here’s a picture to help:

(1) Click "Start", (2) go to "All Programs / Accessories", (3) RIGHT CLICK on the "Command Prompt" program, and (4) choose "Run as administrator".

3) Now, we have to create an empty file called .metadata_never_index on the C drive, to tell Spotlight not to index/search this Windows drive anymore. Here’s how we do it:

3a) Type cd \ and press enter.

3b) Type type NUL > .metadata_never_index and press enter.

Picture below to help:

The stuff you type is in red. I put little blue arrows to show where you need to leave a space (spacebar).

Make sure you use the proper \ (backslash), the proper > (greater-than sign), and the proper _ (underscore).

4) Without the fancy coloring, here’s what it’ll look like:

This is what it looks like, without color.

5) DONE!

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Now you can close Command Prompt, and restart back into Mac OS X again. You should notice the delay is gone. The desktop will show up quickly, and your programs should be nice and speedy once again.

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Note: While this speeds up your Mac again, note that when you try to search through Spotlight or Finder, it won’t search the BOOTCAMP partition anymore (it’ll only search the contents of your Mac drive). You can still read/access the Windows drive, but you can’t search it. This generally doesn’t matter for most people – usually the only time you want to search for a Windows file is when you’re booted into Windows already anyway (which you can still do), but keep it in mind.

If you ever want to UNDO the change, all you have to do is delete the .metadata_never_index file. You could do it through the command prompt, or possibly through Windows Explorer (you may have to change the settings to un-hide everything for it to show up).

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Finally, for those who are wondering why it’s such a convoluted process to create the .metadata_never_index file, there are a few things at play. First, OS X won’t write to an NTFS partition, which all the latest editions of Windows tend to use. So you can’t create the file without booting into Windows. Second, Windows programs won’t let you create a file that starts with a period, which is why it’s being done through a command prompt. Windows also won’t let you put anything on the root drive unless you’re running as administrator.

There are other ways you could go about doing it, but this is the most concise way I could think of. Anything else involves either something like Macfuse/3G-NTFS (which most people don’t have), or by using notepad to create a file and renaming it (which you’d have to do through the Command Prompt anyway). You could replace “type NUL” with “echo.” if you wanted, but you’d end up with a 3-byte line break in the file, whereas this way you get a 0-byte file.

I don’t think I’ve ever touched on politics in the blog, but since net neutrality and usage based billing are pretty big issues in the online community, I think it’s rather fitting.

If you’ve been watching the news in Canada, you’ve probably seen the recent outrage over UBB. At this point the CRTC has delayed implementation while they look at the issue again. Unfortunately, the quotes I’ve read from the head of the CRTC sounded like they came directly from Bell.

If you haven’t been watching the news, basically Bell asked the CRTC to pass something called “usage based billing”, and they did. Bell claims that it’s because a small percentage of users are using the majority of the data. What UBB does is set a low cap on users, and force them to pay DOLLARS per GB when they go over.

What Bell didn’t say of course was that the true goal of UBB is to make it insanely expensive to watch Netflix, YouTube, etc. That way, people won’t replace their Bell TV/Satellite with Netflix, an Apple TV, etc. Very few people have replaced Bell TV/ExpressVu so far, but the number’s growing as the internet continues to grow, and online video services get better and better. Bell’s concerned, because right now they don’t have any real competition in Canada, so they can charge whatever they want for their TV packages. As we move forward and more content becomes available on the internet, it’s probable that in 10 years, nobody will have Satellite/Cable TV and will instead plug their TV into their internet connection and watch TV through a price-competitive provider.

UBB stops that before it happens. If it’s too expensive to watch TV online, people won’t do it. Bell’s leveraging a monopoly in one market (internet access) to keep a monopoly in another (television). It’s anti-competitive.

There’s a pile of other collateral damage caused by UBB. The tiny bit of ISP competition that Bell has is forced to adhere to UBB pricing (against their will), which means they can’t offer unlimited packages, which means they’ll lose that competitive edge and will be killed off. Digital distribution methods like Steam, Apple’s app store, and heck, even Windows updates are going to be problematic in Canada. You’ll never be able to use an online backup service for your pictures/videos unless you pay through the nose for the data transfer, so if a fire takes down your home and you didn’t burn your family pics/vids to a DVD and store it offsite… well say goodbye to years of memories. Those are just a few starter examples.

Really, the largest-growing medium in the world is the internet, and this makes sure it stagnates in Canada.

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Anyway, that’s my take on it.

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For Mr. Angus’s take (the NDP’s digital affairs critic), watch the video below. Yes, the sound quality’s rather poor, but Charlie Angus (NDP) really has a grasp of the issues. I found him to be quite likable too. A good quality to have as a politician, no doubt.

Ironically, he admits he’s not a “techie”, but for a non-techie, the guy really *gets* it.

I don’t know about you, but I want this guy representing us in our next government.

If you’ve tried to get the Civ 5 achievement that requires you to start 5 Golden Ages as Darius (Persian), you may have found that it bugged out. You start dozens of Golden Ages, but don’t get the credit. This is particularly annoying if you played Persia specifically to get it.

Looking around, quite a few people have encountered the bug (Civilization V seems to have suffered quite a few in the achievement system). Since it should be one of the easiest nation-based achievement to get, and only 2.2% of people have it, well… it seems it’s hit quite a few people.

There’s a common belief  that manually triggering golden ages causes the bug. Incidentally, that’s the one that seems to make the most sense.

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In any case, what worked for me was as follows:

  • Start a game as Darius. If you’ve been “robbed” by the bug before, you may as well play on the easiest difficulty (Settler).
  • When you receive a “Great Person” (Great Artist, Great General, Great Scientist, Great Engineer), DO NOT use them to trigger a golden age.
  • DO NOT take policies that directly affect golden ages. Don’t take Rationalism (it instantly triggers a 5-turn golden age). Don’t take Piety (policy to reduce happiness needed to start a golden age, trigger for 5-turn golden age).
  • DO NOT build the Taj Mahal (instant golden age) or other World Wonders you believe might interfere.

It’s possible that only 1 of these is the culprit, but unless you enjoy trial-and-error (or enjoy playing as Darius/Persia), don’t take anything that triggers a golden age. To be on the safe side, I also avoided wonders/policies that reduce the happiness needed to trigger a golden age as well.

Basically, make sure golden ages happen on their own, as organically as possible. If you place an emphasis keeping your empire really happy and avoid the potential bug triggers, it’s pretty easy to obtain.

We’ve had a DLink DIR825 wireless router for about a year. It’s biggest pro is that it’ll run 2 separate wireless networks at the same time, so you can have say… a 5Ghz N-band running as well as a separate 2.4GHz G/B band.

When we bought it, it cost well over $100, so the thinking was “you get what you pay for, so it’ll probably be good”.

Well…. it’s not.

It took less than a year, and the thing started having issues during the summer. More specifically, if it had been running and it lost power (you unplugged it for instance), it wouldn’t start up when you plugged it back in. The “D-Link” light would come on, and nothing else. It was getting power, but refused to start.

Leaving it unplugged for a lengthy time (30 minutes or so) allowed it to cool down enough that it would start up again.

It’s largely been sitting since (been replaced with an Apple Time Capsule for a while), but today I decided to open it up and have a look. I really expected (and hoped for) a bulging capacitor or something that could be easily fixed with a bit of soldering and a donor cap, but no such luck.

Here’s what it looks like disassembled:

The DIR 825 opened up (click image to view a larger picture). Note the discoloration on the upper areas of the white plastic casing.

You’ll notice the discoloration on the inner plastic. It’s not dust. Plastic turns yellow as it starts to melt. The yellowing is located near the position of the 2 heatsinked chips. If this wasn’t a sign of overheating, I don’t know what is.

For a closer look at the “heatsinks”, look here:

The oddest "heatsink material" I've ever seen in my life. Click the image for a slightly larger version.

The material feels like some sort of fine granite.

I plugged the circuit board into power, and waited. It didn’t take long for the “heatsinks” to start heating up.

With the abundance of aluminum, copper, and many other cheap metals, it’s appalling that this was used as a heatsink. Then again, if they used material that would actually transfer heat away from the chips quickly I supposed it would have started melting the entire casing.

In any case, it’s no wonder this thing died an early death.

So what should you take from this…? Well, the thing isn’t exactly built to rugged standards. If you’ve got this router I suggest locating it right beside an air conditioning duct.

Really, D-Link should have designed the enclosure differently (to reduce the chance of the thing starting to melt and to promote airflow), used a lower power chip, and used a “real” heatsink. Alternately, they could have simply added a small fan to force some airflow.

Short version: Don’t buy. This thing belongs in the same price bracket as the budget-routers out there. If you want a budget router to last you a year and can find the DIR-825 for under $30, go for it. Otherwise, look elsewhere.

Dec 11 2010 update: They’ve posted further updates to their the SimpleCDN site, as well as the SimpleCDN twitter feed. From what I gather it looks like they’re doing what they can to help customers transition to other companies. On twitter they seem to be suggesting MaxCDN (using coupon code “simplecdn”) and/or Cloudfront as potential options. MaxCDN’s blog has a mention of the issue, and they appear to be doing what they can to ease the transition for those who decide to move to them.

An unfortunate situation, but it’s nice to see that they’re trying to keep people informed and are working with some of their competition (or… at least competition a few days ago) to help customers move on. I’d imagine SimpleCDN’s business is pretty much toast – something like this would be very difficult to ever recover from.

Popped open one of my sites, and it was taking forever to load… no images. Tried another, and another.

 

While I use a VPS for the main site, I use HostGator shared hosting for some of my smaller sites, the downloads I provide here, as well as for downloads through my other sites (big and small). It’s hard to beat the unlimited bandwidth provided at the price they offer it. If you’re looking at starting up a website, HostGator might be worth a look (don’t forget to use the coupon code mentioned in the banner above!)

 

Yep, the CDN wasn’t responding. Turns out SimpleCDN is down. Upon logging trying to hit the admin section of the site, I was presented with the following:

Dear SimpleCDN Customer,
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I am writing this letter to update you on a situation that has been developing for the past 72 hours between SimpleCDN and our technology and infrastructure providers, SoftLayer and Hosting Services, Inc.
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Two days ago these organizations decided to immediately terminate our contract and suspend service on much of our infrastructure in Dallas, Seattle and Washington, D.C. This infrastructure constitutes the majority of our delivery network for our value services, including on-demand and live streaming services.
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Absolutely no valid reason or warning was or has been given for this termination, and our best guess currently is that these organizations could not provide the services that we contracted and paid for, so instead they decided that terminating services would be the best solution for them.
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We have already started to take legal action against these organizations, however thus far we have not gotten either party to reconsider their position. As it stands now, certain SimpleCDN services will begin to fail within the next few days as additional services are terminated.
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We believe the actions of Hosting Services, Inc. and SoftLayer constitute a deliberate attempt to cripple SimpleCDN’s current service offering.
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SoftLayer and Hosting Services / UK2 Group also resell “CDN” services at a much higher price point, and it is clear these actions constitute a conspiracy to remove us, and many other corporations affected by their reckless actions, from the marketplace.
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I invite you to contact these organizations directly to voice your frustration and opinions on this matter, while we’ll continue to ensure access is available to key services for backing up your data currently contained on the CDN for as long as possible.
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Hosting Services, Inc. – UK2 Group Contacts:
Jeff Hunsaker
President/COO UK2 Group / Hosting Services, Inc.
jeff.hunsaker@uk2group.com
801.368.3358
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Ditlev Bredahl
ditlev@uk2group.com
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SoftLayer Contacts:
Support Team at 1-866-398-7638
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Lance Crosby, CEO
214-442-0600
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I understand how difficult this is for you, and for the past two days we have been scrambling to make alternative arrangements, but not enough time has been given to secure additional delivery resources.
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Our support team will be available 24/7 at support.simplecdn.com to answer any of your questions, and assist you with alternative services in any way possible.
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You may contact me directly at: frank.wilson@simplecdn.com or via our corporate number at 800-269-3033 ext 704.
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Sincerely,
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Frank Wilson
Chief Engineer, SimpleCDN

Well, there goes my cheap CDN provider.

Fortunately I’ve made periodic backups and the VPS I’m on should be more than up to the task of serving everything in the interim – if you’re stuck waiting on images to load on another one of my sites, it’ll probably be an hour or two for the new DNS to resolve, so check back shortly.

I recently took a look at some Air Purifiers for use in a room that’s moderately smoked in.

I’ll be clear. I’m not allergic to anything I know of except mosquito bites. If you’re reading this because you have allergies, it’s not going to help you. If you’re breathing smokey air, it might.

A couple problems with air purifiers, and how I was looking to avoid them in the purchase:

  • Noise levels. Most air purifiers have low/medium/high settings. Manufacturers explain these very poorly, so I’ll explain them better for you.Low usually means that the sound level might be bearable. Some people might be able to sleep through it, but many won’t. Medium is for people who have already lost a portion of their hearing. High is the speed necessary to meet the CADR levels on the box, but is loud enough that it’ll bother you even if you’re in another room. There are exceptions, but they’re few and far between.To alleviate this problem, I planned to use the Low setting on whatever purifier I chose. This meant that although the room in question would probably suit a CADR of 40 or so, I looked for models that were rated considerably higher.
  • Replacement filter costs. I wanted to eliminate them completely. This meant either going with a washable filter, or a lifetime filter. This avoids the problem where you spend more on the filters long-term than the unit itself actually cost, as well as the pain of finding filters for a model once it becomes a few years old.

The first purchase was a “Honeywell Tower Air Purifier”. If I find the manual I lost, I’ll update this with a model number.

However, it looks like the picture you see on the right.

Since I stole the image from Canadian Tire’s website, it’s only fair to provide a link:

Honeywell Tower Air Purifier
Product Number: 43-5008-2

It currently costs $149.99. When on sale recently, it was about $100.

It has a washable filter, but it’s not a TRUE HEPA filter. It looks to be an ionizer-style. The filters are pretty easy to clean. If you look at the little indented “handle” at the top of the picture, it’s basically a matter of pushing a button and pulling that handle up. The entire assembly slides out, containing the pre-filter and 2 main filters.

The pre-filter is just a screen. It’ll stop larger objects from getting inside – tiny bugs, cat hair, and anything else large-ish that might otherwise manage to get sucked in. A quick rinse with water is all this thing needs if it starts getting plugged up.

The 2 main filters push out of the assembly (a top and bottom filter). Again, these appear to be ionizer plates made primarily of a solid material. It’s done in a grid formation – tiny hollow squares that collect particles which have been electrically charged as they pass through.

I can certainly vouch for the ionizer filter working well. After 12 days, I gave the filters a cleaning in the sink, and the sink was full of brown dirty water – the brown stuff being all the smoke and other junk in the air that the plates had collected.

Air was noticably freshened while the unit was running. It removed smoke from the air (and much of the smell) really well. It made a huge difference.

It was continue reading…

I picked up Civ 5 on the day of release. I haven’t been much of a Civ player since the original game, but some of the previews looked good so I thought it might be worth a look. Now that I’ve finally beat the game on every difficulty level, it’s time to put my experiences into words.

Overview

Here’s the short of it.

The game uses Steam. Buying a retail copy saves you from having to download the entire game and gives you a nice large physical chart, but you’re still using Steam to play it. A couple plusses are that it follows your Steam account, and also opens up the ability for achievements through Steam. Downside is that if you’re not a fan of Steam as a method of DRM, you won’t be pleased.

Movement is now hexagonal. It feels more versatile, and was probably necessary due to the combat change listed next.

Combat has drastically changed. Units (with few exceptions) no longer stack, which means no more pain-trains of units. In many ways, this makes for a more tactical style of play, and is something I really enjoy. You now have to consider continue reading…

I recently did some benchmarks which can be found here and here.

After a lengthy period rendering a scene, I’ve made a few observations:

Mac vs Windows with Maya 2011

I can’t really give any comparisons when it comes to speed (they seem to be roughly equal), but Apple’s Mac OS is really impressive in the way it lets you multi task while a render’s going at full tilt. I’ll put it this way: If you’re on a Mac, you can still use it while the render’s going – I wouldn’t try playing a game by any means, but web browsing, sifting through images, and even encoding are all possible. If you’re using a Windows machine, it’s effectively unusable while rendering – even trying to open an image can take a few seconds (even on a 6-core machine), and forget about having a responsive interface any time all cores are maxed.

Essentially what I’m saying is that if you’re looking to buy a daily-use machine that will also spend gads of time rendering, you’ll want a Mac. On the other hand, if you’re buying a machine that will render and do nothing else, either will be fine (although you’ll probably get the most for your money running a Windows machine with an AMD processor). Note that RAM is pretty important and I’d go with a minimum of 8GB.

Cross-OS usage of scene files (Windows and Mac)

If you utilize the proper process for project folders (setting the folder) and make sure you reference any images/etc using a relative path, you should have minimal issues.

However, if you leave the project as the default one and reference imag continue reading…

Previously, some overclocking attempts with this chip and the Asus P5KPL-CM didn’t go incredibly well, due to the RAM not being adjustable (and the board not booting with a BSEL’ed processor). The highest it pushed was 285Mhz on the FSB (2.28Ghz).

I grabbed a Gigabyte board this time around – the G41MT-ES2L. In many ways, it’s similar to the Asus in that it’s got onboard video, a few weak overclocking options, and is about the same size. The largest difference really (aside from using a different Intel chipset) is that it uses DDR3.

The Gigabyte went a fair chunk higher – 343Mhz on the FSB. There seems to be a solid wall at this frequency.

UPDATE: I managed to squeeze out another 5Mhz (348Mhz) after doing a little research although it’s important to note it was NOT STABLE (failed Linpack) – based on posts and reviews I’ve come across it seems the G41 chipset is known for a wall between 340-350. In some cases, by playing with the PCI-E frequency setting you can get a few more Mhz out of the chip. 103-105Mhz PCIe worked for me and allowed me to get those extra 5Mhz. Anything above that gave a blank screen. Note that you can really mess up the system (possibly toast something) by running the PCIe bus out of spec, so I suggest being careful if you go this route – remember, you probably won’t get above 350Mhz FSB, so whether spending the time tweaking is worth it for the 7Mhz or less extra you might get is debatable. Try to keep the PCIe around the default of 100Mhz if you can (110+ is risking it), and save this step for the end when you’re sure you’ve hit the wall.

A few details as to how I continue reading…

High-End Air -VS- Low-End Water (yes that's my ugly drawing of a fan and a glass of water)

Sorry about the pics – CoolIt doesn’t have images of the Domino on their site anymore, and I was too lazy to take a pic. There are a zillion pics on the web, but I didn’t want to rip one off. Hence, the barely-representative-but-you-get-the-gist-of-it drawing.

Anyway…. little blurbs, then benchmark numbers at the end.

NOCTUA NH-U12P

Noctua’s coolers are generally considered to be fairly high end. While the U12P isn’t the latest model, it’s still quite good, and I used it for quite a while in the overclocked AMD X6 system.

Note that the Antec 300 case it was in has excellent airflow. It was mounted pushing air up (1 fan), with the case’s 14 cm fan just above pulling that air up and out – the ideal setup for this case. When the system was under load, you could *feel* the warm air being pulled out the top.

Like I said, this cooler’s pretty good. To give you an idea, it’s “new” home (an i3), it’s dropping load temps by 20 degrees celcius… from an alarming 92 down to 72 – I’m sure it would do even better if the “new” home had better airflow too, but 20 degrees is nothing to scoff at – it’s impressive.

COOLIT Domino A.L.C.

This is what’s known as “low end” watercooling – essentially, the all-in-one package priced (and meant to compete with) high-end air. This falls along the same line as the popular Corsair H50 / H70 water systems. In fact, when I hopped into the store, the choice was between this and the H50.

In comparison to the H50, most of what I’ve read seems to indicate that the Domino beats the H50 by a couple degrees. Every test system/set-up is different though, so that can be taken with a grain of salt. In any case, it should be fair to say that they’re both similar in terms of the performance you can expect. In any case, the Domino was a few dollars cheaper, and had an LCD which displays (amongst a couple other things) the coolant temp.

I should note that if you’re looking at the Domino vs the H50, keep in mind that Corsair’s a very popular and solid name and in terms of trusting a brand not to leak all over your system, Corsair would probably be the more popular pick. The Corsair also allows for 2 fans (in a push/pull configuration), whereas the Domino only has room for 1 fan (due to the LCD/pump section taking up the space required to add a 2nd). Corsair defaults to sucking air into the case, whereas Cool-It defaults to pushing air out. Both orientations can be changed.

TEMPERATURE RESULTS

You’ll see the CoolIt Domino comes out ahead. HWMonitor was used for the number collection (the numbers correspond to what both RealTemp and AMD OverDrive report). To get the max values, OCCT was run for 15 minutes, then the “LinPack” module was run for another 15 minutes. Then I waited to see what the lowest idle temp was and took the min/max numbers.

Note that AMD Overdrive refers to these values as follows:

CPU = Core Temperature
TMPIN0 = CPU Temperature
TMPIN1 = Motherboard Temperature

RESULTS

Depending on whether continue reading…